North Cascades, Highway 20, to Coeur d’Alene (6/29/18-7/3/18)
Chaos occurred on the ferry prior to driving off, a fire alarm and possibly a fire broke out after we docked. I watched several fire trucks make their way to the ferry terminal. After grabbing a latte and quickly reconnecting with the outside world, I made my way to Highway 20, the North Cascades. I shed a tear as I turned onto the highway, this was my home for 6 years and I still feel connected to this place. I stopped in Concrete for a photo op, a town I never stopped to visit, just drove through. This time I ordered a pizza, got groceries and stopped at the local bakery, before heading to my old favorite campground, Colonial Creek.
Back then, you could just show up and the place would be empty. Now, I couldn’t get a reservation months advance, all 100 site already booked. I took my chances with first come, first serve, and felt pretty good since it was a rainy day. Once I set up my home for the next 2 days, I doubled backed to Newhalem to be a tourist and walk the trail of the cedars and the lighted ladder trail.
The next morning I did my long run on the Thunder Creek trail in the rain, a trail I’ve backpacked years ago. It was the perfect Pacific Northwest type of rain that’s more of a constant drizzle. My trail shoes will never be the same! I also misjudged the depths of a creek bed and ran right through it, soaking my feet with 7 miles left. Golden rule of trail running, always watch where you’re going and don’t daydream, if you do, you’ll lose your footing. Back at camp, the inside of my tent was technically dry, although my sleeping bag and pillow were damp from living outside.
The next morning, I packed up camp and headed east, my destination just 4-5 hours away.
I wanted to get a hike in before making my way to camp, so I turned into the town of Mazama. As I was parking to consult my 18 year old hiking book, that served as my bible when I lived in Seattle, I was approached by a runner wanting to chat with me. He noticed my AK plates and wanted to talk Alaska, as he just moved out of our great state last year. I asked him about the local hikes, and he was sending me back up the highway to a trailhead I drove by earlier. I showed him a hike I did in 2004, and he told me he did that hike last weekend. Great! It’s open!! I’ve stuck out with other hikes I picked today, the North Cascades are snow covered until late July. He mentioned the dirt road and said, “You’re an Alaskan, It will be nothing, although there is that river crossing you need to drive over, but you’ll be fine”, “Go for it!” Well, the “Go for it” got me and the sign said 20 miles to the trail, that’s not too far.
This is the type of road my 2005 Tundra was made for, I kept telling myself. The steep dirt road was one lane with some pull out areas to let others pass. Just have to make sure you are in the right spot when another vehicle is approaching. It’s the type of travel that when you pass someone, you roll down your window to say “thanks” or maybe even chat a minute. Or at the very least, get a wave or a peace sign. Over an hour later, my shoulders and neck stiff from tension, I was never so relieved to see a brown (forest service) sign. I stopped there and consulted my book, which said to keep going up, to 6800 feet. I was only 2 miles below that area, and decided I would follow the sign instead of my antiquated book, which read, “Campground 1 mile, PCT 2 miles”. I had enough of the scary road and with areas lacking to turn around, I figured I can park at the campground and walk to the trailhead, I can probably walk as fast as I’m driving anyway!
As I exited the car, my legs were shaky and my mouth was dry. The campground was deserted, and as I walked to the trailhead with the wind whistling in my ears, I thought I made a terrible mistake. The road was so slow moving, 10 miles per hour, this side trip was a lot more than I bargained for. Once I reached the trailhead, I was delighted to see 2 cars parked there and a couple finishing up their hike. When I left the car, I only planned to be out a short while, so I under packed. When the couple warned me about crossing over 2 snowfields, I just figured I’d turn around before I reached them. Well…. Once I started this hike, I was in awe of the views. I did cross both snowfields carefully, making sure to not look down, just putting one foot in front of the other, in the footprints of my predecessors. The slope of the second snowfield was quite steep, and if I stopped or looked down, my mind would have me freezing in place or possibly slipping. The crossing was more mentally challenging than anything. I’ve done this type of hiking before, but I didn’t have poles with me. Also, no one knew where I was, and now I was alone, so it adds another layer of riskiness.
As I approached the place I told myself I should turn around, there was a woman and her young son having lunch. I mentioned the road and she didn’t even flinch. Maybe I’m just an Alaskan wimp! I continued on until coming upon a fallen tree in the sloping trail, and figured this was a good spot to turn around. The woman and her son were heading in as I was headed back out, and we stopped to chat a while. I told her I wanted to try to get up high, and she told me I picked the right hike! Yes! When she told me she biked from Fairbanks to Anchorage in 2001, I knew I was dealing with a hardcore woman. I was more comfortable knowing she was on the trail behind me in case of an emergency. Driving back down the road was slightly faster, I allowed myself to go 20 miles an hour in spots when my quad muscle needed a rest from hovering over the break pedal. I finally returned to the start of my side trip ~5 hours later.
I stopped in Winthrop, a little cowboy town and walked around a bit and gave my wife a call. I had been out of service for 2 days. When I went into the Visitor’s center and picked up a hiking guide, I got to chatting with the host. When I told her the hike I did, she exclaimed “How about that road! How was it?” She told me she is not sending anyone up there yet due to snow and the conditions of the road. I told her the road was “alright”, since I did complete it with all 4 tires still inflated. I definitely felt validated after that conversation. Not a wimp! I made my way to Canyon Creek camp and got there at 8:48pm, just before dark and got my tent set up with minutes to spare.
The next morning after a hearty breakfast, I made my way to Coeur d’Alene and set up camp at Beauty Creek Campground. I reserved the camp in advance and had a wonderfully grassy site that was private. The next day, I decided to ride the Hiawatha trail. The trail technically starts in Montana, right on the border. I will be heading that way the next day, however, with my long side trip that I accomplished a few days earlier, I figured no big deal to go an hour out of my way to do something I’m looking forward to. It was worth it! The “Ride the Hiawatha” (link eventually) is a 15 mile (one way) rail to trail bike trail, considered the “Crown Jewel” of all rail to trail projects in the country. The ride features 10 tunnels and 7 sky high trestles, and its all downhill with a gentle grade. The longest tunnel is 1.6 miles long and 44 degrees inside. This trip was awesome!! And, the best part is, there is a shuttle bus that will give you a ride back to the top! The driver of the remodeled school bus shared some intriguing stories about the history of the local area. I’d say this is the most dynamic biking trail I’ve ever done.
Stats:
Miles run-19
Miles hiked- 4
Bike trip miles- 15
Best camp meal- New York strip steak with parmesan and buttered noodles with a can of green beans.
2nd place- double cheeseburger prepared over the open flame, with all the fixings
Wildlife spotted- lots of deer, rabbits
Showers- 0- hoping to take one tomorrow!!
Mosquito bites- healing